#BehindTheLens: Costume designer Niharika Bhasin shares some deets about designing Vidya Balan’s costumes for Bhool Bhulaiyaa 3, her process and more

With people anticipating the return of Monjulika, award-winning costume designer, Niharika Bhasin talks to us about styling Vidya Balan for Bhool Bhulaiyaa 3 and more.

Nothing is as iconic as the elements of a costume that people use to identify a character. Cinema, as a result of the combined effort of multiple creative minds, has shown us how this effort can make an impact. It's commendable and gratifying to see people's vision come to life and it ending up as iconic. As an audience, we usually associate the movie with what we see onscreen, which is often an actor portraying a character. However, it takes a village to help those actors bring out their acting skills and 'stay in character', with one major helping factor being the costumes. You can't deny that costumes play a significant role. Be it Don’s red gamcha or Gangubai’s white sarees, costume designers spend months creating those looks that are unique to them.

If there's any character that people consider eternal among all the iconic Bollywood characters, it's got to be Monjulika. That's exactly why people have been anticipating to see Vidya Balan reprise this character. As they wait for the release of Bhool Bhulaiyaa 3, we had the opportunity to have a chat with the movie's costume designer, Niharika Bhasin. The character was made historic not just by Balan’s extraordinary talent but also by the costume, which continues to be a top choice for every costume party. Despite being a celebrated Bollywood costume designer known for her remarkable ability to blend traditional Indian aesthetics with contemporary fashion, finding ways to make an already iconic character stand out can be a task, but how did she manage to do it? We asked Bhasin about her process, elements she focused on, working for horror dramas and more.

Also Read - The Bhool Bhulaiyaa 3 trailer: Kartik Aaryan fights Vidya Balan and Madhuri Dixit in a hilariously spooky showdown!

Here’s what she had to share!

You’ve been a part of films that are now considered classics with costumes that people find memorable. How did it all start?

Honestly, I got into this industry completely by fluke. My brother is a well-known costume designer, and one day, Sudhir Mishra came to me and said, “You should do this.” Both Sudhir and Sam pushed me—they even came to my house. I remember looking at Sudhir and saying, “Sir, I might completely mess up the film you’re giving me.” And he replied, “We need more people in the industry who can tell the truth.” That’s how I got my first project. I truly believe they saw something in me, and after that, there was no looking back.

What is your process like when you're planning a character’s look?

I have a pretty detailed process when it comes to building a character. It always starts with the script—I spend a lot of time with it and with the director’s notes. I bring my team together and we brainstorm and ideate on different levels. My process is very detail-oriented; I love paying attention to the small things that bring a character to life. Even in hyper-real films, I focus on how characters would behave and how their economic status or personality would reflect in the clothes they wear. It’s about making everything feel real and natural within the world of the film.

Vidya Balan’s character in Bhool Bhulaiyaa has become iconic. How did you approach designing her costume, and what was your process like for this role?

When you’re working with an iconic character, especially one that carries through multiple features, you have to keep the essence of the character intact. Of course, the director has their vision too. For Vidya’s character, I originally had a different view on her look. Since the film operates in a hyper-real space, I wanted her costumes to be rooted in Indian silhouettes. We came up with the idea of a saree pant, which was something fresh and exciting for her character. We also had specific sarees printed in the style and drape we wanted—keeping the essence of something traditional but turning it into something uniquely ours.

Since Bhool Bhulaiyaa is a mix of horror and myth, how did you decide on the costumes?

We started by deciding on Indian silhouettes, and from there, we played with the textiles—whether it was the type or quantity of fabric. I worked closely with the DOP to figure out how each scene would look, and we used that to decide on the color palettes. We wanted to evoke a sense of myth and fear, so the costumes had to support that atmosphere without overwhelming the narrative.

What’s a common misconception people have about the role of a costume designer?

Oh, there are so many! First, people think it’s glamorous and easy, but designing costumes for an entire film is extremely challenging. You’re responsible for every single person in the frame, from the background actors to the leads. It’s like creating a painting, where every detail matters. Another misconception is that we make a lot of money, which isn’t true at all! And people often confuse us with stylists—we are not stylists. We create and design costumes, often working closely with hair and makeup to create a cohesive look. So yeah, it’s definitely not as easy or glamorous as it seems.

Who inspires you in the world of costume design? And how do you stay creatively motivated when working on multiple projects?

For me, the script is always the key inspiration. The story itself drives my creativity. That said, money can also be a great motivator—haha! But really, the more unique the project, the more it pushes me to do better and explore new ideas. I also draw a lot of inspiration from travel, my team’s energy, and, of course, being a single mother keeps me going. It’s all about balancing the creative with the practical.

What advice would you give to aspiring costume designers?

My advice would be to choose the right mentor. Your mentor will teach you the basics of the industry, and as long as you’re committed and work hard, you’ll get where you want to be. Costume design is a demanding, time-consuming job. You could be working non-stop for six months, and then take a break—it’s very project-based. Having knowledge of colors, textiles, and creativity will definitely help, but the most important things are intent and perseverance. Those will carry you through the challenges

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